Wednesday 29 October 2014

Best for... Vegetarians

My safe bet whenever visiting a new city and looking for vegetarian food is to head for the nearest Indian. You wouldn’t go terribly wrong following the same principle in Oxford: all its Indian restaurants serve up the usual collection of vegetable and paneer dishes. However, none of them quite make this list, with their offerings being average at best; as the majority are in fact Pakistani or Bangladeshi rather than Indian, they don’t come with quite as much of a cultural background of non-meat-eating as you might get elsewhere in Britain.


The one exception to this is Yeti, which is actually a Nepalese. Alongside a range of Indian classics they have some exciting Nepalese dishes, including some vegetarian offerings. Try out any jackfruit, plantain, or bamboo dish.


For those looking for more variety though, here’s a rundown of our favourite venues in Oxford with great vegetarian offerings.


Best for… breakfast: OxFork
39 Magdalen Road, Oxford OX4 1RB
OxFork make a fantastic breakfast anyway, but I think you actually get a better offering here as a vegetarian than you do as a meat-eater. Alongside the standard veggie full English (beans, mushrooms, eggs, toast, spinach, bubble and squeak) they also always have on a veggie all-American (pancakes, eggs, halloumi and maple syrup) and a wide selection of eggs-on-toast items. I had their veggie special last time, which was one of the best breakfasts I’ve ever eaten: roasted purple sprouting broccoli, eggs, wild spinach potato cake, mushroom pate on toast and beans).
Service is charming but sometimes a little slow, so order your first coffee as soon as you’re seated, and the second when the first arrives, in order to avoid any dangerous un-caffeinated breaks.


Best with… a big group: Al-Shami
25 Walton Crescent, Oxford OX1 2JG
Al-Shami easily made it onto the Bitten Top 10. But it’s with a group of vegetarians, or even vegans, that it really comes into its own. The best thing to do is to order a selection of mezze between a group of people, aiming for 2-3 dishes per person, and then let everyone dive in and sample the diversity. Only four of the cold mezze dishes aren’t vegetarian, and nearly half the hot mezze are vegetarian. I’d particularly recommend the falafel, the crunchiest I’ve ever had, and the cauliflower in sesame dressing, which coincidentally are two of their vast range of vegan offerings.
An interesting wine list, including Lebanese wine by the glass, thick and aromatic coffee, and superb baklava will complete an excellent evening out.


Best for... those missing meat: Pink Giraffe
43b St. Clements St, Oxford OX4 1AG
Those sensible Buddhists. Realising that, although vegetables are lovely, people often like some interestingly textured protein with their meal, they’ve spent centuries perfecting the art of crafting tofu to look like meat. Pink Giraffe, alongside a somewhat less tempting regular all-you-can-eat deal, serve almost their entire regular menu in parallel, but vegetarian versions. The crispy duck, with the usual pancakes and trimmings, was an absolute life-saver for me recently.
Service is friendly and the rather small size of the restaurant means that it always feels cozy. The wine list and desserts are nothing to write home about, but then, they’re not what you’re here for.


Best when… dining with carnivores: Atomic Burger
96 Cowley Rd, Oxford OX4 1JE
I am told that there are unreconstructed human beings out there who just can’t contemplate a meal without a massive hunk of red meat in the middle of the plate. For times when you’re going out for dinner with such people, Atomic Burger is your best bet. They can have a hunk of meat topped with at least two other hunks of meat, and the chips topped with meat, and you can smugly order one of their veggie burgers plus one of their wide range of vegetarian toppings. The Frito Bandito and the Johnny Cash come particularly highly recommended.
It’s also worth noting that, if you ask for it without the bacon garnish, the Baconator milkshake is vegetarian...


Best for… lunch: Alpha Bar
89 The Market, Oxford OX1 3EF
A world away from the cheese sandwich based offerings of most cafes (that wide range of cheddar, mozzarella, and goat’s cheese always available…) Alpha Bar in the Covered Market make delicious healthy salads that mostly just happen to be vegetarian. Choose your size, choose a couple of fresh raw salads, and then add some cheese or falafel. Seeds also added for those of you on serious Gillian McKeith-style health kicks.


Best when… on a date: Door 74
74 Cowley Rd, Oxford OX4 1JB
Door 74 is one of the most romantic places we know in Oxford, and luckily it always has some interesting vegetarian dishes on. The menu is short, so options are limited, but I’ve never seen the standard mushroom risotto sneaking on to it. Instead you’ll find carrot fritters, beetroot risotto, spinach and feta pie or griddled polenta, but the menu also changes regularly based on season and the chef’s latest ideas, so you should always find something exciting to eat. Low lighting, candles, and unobtrusive service make this a gorgeous evening out.

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